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Processing
​加工

Traditionally, fishery has been one of the most crucial industries in Macao. Fish caught from the sea need to be preserved to maintain their freshness before they are transported to markets. Proper storage of both fresh and frozen fish is crucial in the processing phase, as is the appropriate preservation of related products like salted fish. However, the effects of climate change can impact the storage and production processes. Some practitioners have noted significant changes in the climate compared to the past. Nevertheless, people are adapting to these changes by employing innovative techniques while still utilizing traditional knowledge. 

傳統上,漁業一直是澳門最重要的產業之一。從海裏捕獲的魚在運往市場之前需要保存以保持新鮮。在加工階段,新鮮和冷凍魚類的適當儲存至關重要,鹹魚等相關產品的適當保存也是如此。然而,氣候變化的影響可能會影響儲存和生產過程。一些從業者註意到,與過去相比,氣候發生了重大變化。盡管如此,人們在利用傳統知識的同時,也在利用創新技術來適應這些變化。

 

Fresh fish is important in Macao’s culture, people use oxygen pump in storing fresh fish by exchanging oxygen. The first oxygen pump in Macao was made by local people with recycled waste materials, which was further applied in the Complexo Municipal do Mercado de S. Lourenço (下環街市), then it was spread to other markets and is commonly used by fishmongers. Apart from oxygen pump, ice and snow is also important in storing fresh fish, not to say the frozen fish, they can kept on beneath the ice to keep fresh. 

鮮魚在澳門的文化中很重要,人們使用氧氣泵通過交換氧氣來儲存鮮魚。澳門的第一部氧氣泵是由街市魚販用回收的廢料製造的,並最初在下環街市出現,然後被傳播到其他街市,並被魚販普遍使用。除了氧氣泵,冰雪在儲存新鮮魚類和冷凍魚類裏面很重要。

 

In the 1920s, the fishing industry experienced a surge in growth, with ice-making being one of the significant developments. The early ice factories were primarily focused on freezing fish to keep them fresh in the fish lanes (魚欄), where they were sold.

20世紀20年代,澳門的漁業經歷了激烈增長,製冰是其中一個重要的發展。早期的製冰廠主要專註於冷凍魚類,以使其在魚欄中保持新鮮,並在那裏出售。

 

During the 1970s, salted fish became a vital commodity for the locals due to its long shelf life and affordable price. Macao's proximity to the sea ensured a steady supply of seafood, with some ingredients like shrimp paste, oyster paste, and calm paste becoming famous.

20世紀70年代,鹹魚因其保質期長、價格實惠而成為當地人的重要商品。澳門靠近大海,確保了海鮮的穩定供應,蝦醬、蠔油和蜆蚧醬等一些海產醬料也因此而聞名。

Tsit On Ice Conpany 捷安冰廠

Tsit On Ice Company is one of the two left ice factory in Macao now. Ice is vital to keep all fish catch fresh. Ice is also important in no matter food production, in wet market or in restaurant. People need ice to store food, and it can cool us in hot summer time. 

捷安冰廠是現在澳門現在僅存的兩家製冰廠之一。冰跟雪可以保持住魚類的新鮮。無論是在食品生產、街市還是在餐廳中,冰都非常重要。人們需要冰來儲存食物,在炎熱的夏天也可以起到降溫的作用。

 

Tsit On Ice Company established in 1966, it joined the Ice League in 1967, which the league was used to decrease the evil competition among ice factory. Though production method changed a lot, the Tsit On Ice Company is still one of the traditional ice factory in Macao and the only two ice factory in Macao now. As the weather has changed a lot, summer is hotter now. Ice is still applicable in storing the fish.

捷安冰廠成立於1966年,1967年加入了「冰協」,該協會旨在減少製冰廠之間的惡性競爭。盡管生產方法發生了很大變化,捷安冰廠仍然是澳門有歷史的製冰廠之一。 

 

Ice has been used to keep fish fresh for a long time. in the past, when cold storage was not popularize because of the high cost, ice is more acceptable for most of the fishermen, fishmongers and dry seafood shops. Though the weather is getting hotter, which may make the food decay faster. And now, people are meeting a higher demand in ice. Macao’s ice-producing method did not change untill Tsit On Ice Company’s establish that it started to produce with machine, which highly increased the supply of ice. Until now, Tsit On Ice Company is survived and existed in the inner harboour.

長期以來,冰一直被用來保持魚類的新鮮度。隨著天氣的變化,現在的夏天更加炎熱,冰仍然適用於儲存魚類。在過去,由於成本高昂,冷藏庫等並不普及,因此大多數漁民、魚販和海味店鋪對冰的需求很大。如今天氣變得越來越極端,可能會加快食品的腐爛,而近代的人們對冰的需求也隨著經濟的發展越來越高。澳門製冰業技術沒有顯著的改變,而捷安冰廠的成立打破了該僵局,開始使用機械生產,不僅大大增加了冰的供應量,而捷安冰廠作為「冰協」裏如今仍存在冰廠更是澳門工業發展的一個歷史見證。 

Source: Lin Yihua     來源:林溢華

Man Sang Yu Haai Lan   萬生魚蟹欄

Salty fish was a popular food among Macao people during the 1960s to 1970s due to its pleasant aroma and affordability, coinciding with Macao's transformation from a fishing village to an industrialized city. 

上世紀60年代至70年代,恰逢澳門從一個漁村轉變為一個工業化城市,當時鹹魚是澳門人比較追崇的一種食物,因為它不僅美味而且價格實惠。

 

Nowadays, climate change is widely recognized, but the only way to preserve salted fish is by keeping it dry in a refrigerator. In the past, people had to utilize various traditional techniques to ensure the fish was properly dried, including covering it in the paper after sun-drying or immersing it in oil in a jar to prevent air and pollution from entering. Alternatively, they could wrap the fish's head in paper to keep flies from entering and spawning. In modern times, a plastic bag is used in addition to paper. Previously, the newspaper was used for wrapping, but it was replaced with white paper due to complaints about the ink. 

如今,氣候變化已被廣泛討論,但是最有效的鹹魚保存方法是將其放在冰箱中冷藏保持。過去,人們必須利用各種傳統技術來確保魚得到適當的幹燥,包括在陽光幹燥後用紙覆蓋,或製成油浸鹹魚,以防止空氣和汙染進入。此外,任夢更用紙包裹鹹魚頭,防止蒼蠅進入並產卵。在現代,除了紙包裹之外,還會在外面使用塑料袋包裝。報紙也曾用來包裝鹹魚,因其紙能吸收水分,但隨著人們環保意識的提高以及對食品安全問題的考慮,報紙逐漸被白紙取代了。

 

Man Sang Yu Haai Lan, located near Ponte 16, has been selling dry seafood for over 70 years and still uses traditional methods to produce oil-immersed salted fish while combating climate change.

萬生魚蟹欄位於海邊新街,有70多年的幹貨銷售歷史,它在應對氣候變化的同時,同時仍沿用傳統方法生產油浸鹹魚和幹曬鹹魚。

Salted fish immersed with oil    油浸鹹魚

 

Regular package for salted fish  常見鹹魚包裝

Source: Lin Yihua     來源:林溢華

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quen Ine Chan Carnes Secas 景然棧腊味

Macao is renowned for its seafood paste, particularly its shrimp sauce and oyster paste. The oyster paste has been a specialty of Macao since the Qing Dynasty and gained popularity in the 1980s, with over 10 shops selling it at that time. Additionally, Macao boasts a unique sauce known as clam sauce.

澳門的海鮮醬料非常聞名,例如蝦醬和蠔油等。澳門的蠔油從清代開始發展,並在20世紀80年代廣受歡迎,當時有10多家蠔油店。此外,澳門還有一種獨特的醬汁——蜆蚧醬。

 

Quen Ine Chan Carnes Secas is one of the few shops still producing and selling clam sauce in Macao. This clam sauce is made by fermenting clams, resulting in a salty flavor. Adding edible wine during the fermentation process can not only increase its flavor, but also extend the shelf life. Nowadays, the ever-changing climate has made the weather increasingly extreme. Adding alcohol to the sauce making process can even slow down its decay rate.

景然棧臘味是澳門為數不多的仍在生產和銷售蜆蚧醬的商店。蜆蚧醬是通過發酵蛤蜊製成的,具有鹹味。並在發酵過程中添加食用酒,添加酒精不僅可以增加其風味;如今多變的氣候,讓天氣越來越極端,在製醬過程重加入酒精更可以減緩其腐敗的速度。

 

 

Source: Lin Yihua     來源:林溢華

Source: Lin Yihua     來源:林溢華

​References:

Chan, C, L. (1996). Ou Mun Baak Yip: Selected Historical Reports of Students from Pui Ching.

Association of Historical  and Geographical Studies of Pui Ching Middle School

Chan, C, L. (1999). Ou Mun Baak Yip: Selected Historical Reports of Students from Pui Ching (2nd ed.).

Association of Historical and Geographical Studies of Pui Ching Middle School

Chan, C, L. (2001). Ou Mun Baak Yip: Selected Historical Reports of Students from Pui Ching (3rd ed.).

Association of Historical and Geographical Studies of Pui Ching Middle School

Tong, S. (2004). Ou Mun Fung Mat Ji. Macao Foundation.

By LIN YIHUA, EVA

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