Seafood business
海鮮銷售
The fishing business has existed in Macao for a long time, nowadays, there are mainly two types of seafood sold in Macao, one is fresh seafood, the other is salted or dried seafood.
澳門販魚有著悠久的歷史,如今澳門販賣的海鮮有兩種,一種是新鮮海鮮,另一種是乾貨海味。
From our interview with one of the employees of Mercearia Leong Chio Kei, she mentioned that the Baak Fa Yu (白花魚) is hard to be found in Coloane anymore because of reclamation and other reasons. Reclamation decreased the water for Baak Fa Yu to live and spawn, and the construction increase the carbon emissions and raise the temperature of the seawater, making it unsuitable for the inhabitation of Baak Fa Yu. The Baak Fa Yu is one of the sources to make maw, therefore, as the species is almost extinct in Macao right now, it affected the supply of maw. Almost all of the dried maw sold in Macao right now are not made of local Baak Fa Yu or even local fish. The shops use fish from other areas or other types of fish to produce maw.
我們采訪了梁潮記其中一位店員,她提到曾經栖息在路環的百花魚因爲填海工程和其他各種原因已經幾乎無跡可尋。填海工程使適宜百花魚栖息和產卵的水域減少,這些工程也加使了二氧化碳的排放以及海水溫度的升高。作爲花膠的其中一個原料,因爲上述原因,百花魚幾近絕跡,影響著花椒原料的供應。如今澳門所有的花膠都不是用本地百花魚,甚至不是本地魚製作。海味舖使用本地其他魚種或來自其他地區的魚來製作花膠。
The other species that disappeared was the mud crab, which was once inhabited in Ilha Verde. According to a poem that was written in the late Qing Dynasty, it stated that “新製士敏土,機廠崇且堅。只惜佳蟹絕,持螯空流涎。” translation of English is “the cement factories were built, good crabs were gone”. It described the incident in 1886, when English businessmen established cement factories in Illha Verde. More construction and development activities surrounding the sea lead to more carbon emissions, which is accountable for climate change. Also, the factories' pollutants made the ocean acidic, which might hurt the crustaceans, furthermore, it will impact the whole ocean’s ecological system. Simultaneously, the supply side of the mud crab declined, but since there is a lot of crab cream in mud crab particularly, the demand side continued to grow at that time, when the demand exceeded supply. Alternatively, the customers intended to seek other options for Ilha Verde’s mud crabs.
另一個瀕危的物種是青洲泥蟹。晚清詩句中記載“新製士敏土,機廠崇且堅。只惜佳蟹絕,持螯空流涎。”意思是由於水泥廠的興建,泥蟹的佳種已經絕跡,反映了1886年英國人在青洲建設水泥廠一事。越來越多的工程和建設導致了更多的二氧化碳排放,是氣候變化的元凶之一。而且工廠的污染物排放到海水中導致海水酸化,可能殃及到甲殼類動物,從而破壞整個海洋生態系統。泥蟹的絕跡同時也切斷了市場供應鏈,泥蟹由於膏多且肥美,倍受食客喜愛,導致了供不應求。但是顧客也會尋求其他蟹種作爲青洲泥蟹的替代品。
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Source: Source: Arquivo de Macau 來源:澳門檔案館
If climate change continues to affect the fishery industry, it is not easy for the fishmongers and the owners of the dried seafood to continue selling fish. They have such a mindset that “Don't put all your eggs in one basket”, so they would sell other seafood or goods not related to fishery at all. This traditional philosophy of business helps them to lower the risk and make their business more resilient.
如果氣候變化在未來持續影響,魚販和海味舖店主都將難以爲繼。不過他們有著“不要將所有鷄蛋放在同一個籃子裏”的先見之明,這種傳統經商之道幫助他們分散風險,使得他們的生意更加具有韌性。
Reference:
Tong, S. (1994). Macao History. [Chinese: 唐思. (1994). 澳門風物志.. 澳門基金會. ]
By LUO RUNNAN, LORENA