Diet and gastronomy
飲食與烹飪
Diet and gastronomy embody a place's culture, tradition, natural environment, and ecosystem. On the one hand, food materials are gained from the natural environment and follow the laws of nature. On the other hand, the processing of turning food material into product production reflects the culture of local people.
飲食和烹飪體現了一個地方的文化、傳統、自然環境和生態系統。一方面,食材來源於自然環境,並遵循自然規律。另一方面,將食材轉化為產品生產加工再到餐桌的過程反映了當地人的文化。
In the case of Macao, most of the food material is gained from the marine. Due to the limitation of resources, Macao relies on resources from the ocean. Seafood has become one of the most important food products in Macao. The local people make use of them and combine them into local cuisine. As a region that inherits Cantonese cuisine, the traditional cuisine with seafood products are widely applied in Macao. The poem “咫尺沙岡市,魚蝦不少錢。蟹黃隨月滿,沙白入春鮮” expressed that Macao had rich seafood resources and the related diet in the late Ming and early Qing dynasty. Moreover, as part of the Macao ethnic group, Macanese and Portuguese people also have similar eating habits to the locals due to their consumption of seafood products. Some ingredients of their cuisines are made of seafood products. For example, Macanese cusine include Balichão(土生咸蝦醬),Pastéis de Bacalhau(馬介休),Vicencia do Rosario(辣汁蝦),and Portuguese cusine include Ameijoa à Espanhola(葡萄式炒蜆),Lulas Recheadas(酒魷魚) ,Caldeirada de Marisco(海鮮大燴). Interestingly, some of the restaurants in the community serve Portuguese cuisine, and the chef is a native Macao people who inherited the skills from his father, such as Portuguese Restaurant at Patio do Espinho.
就澳門而言,大部分食材都是從海洋中獲取的。由於資源有限,澳門依賴海洋資源。海鮮已成為澳門最重要的食品之一,當地人利用它們並將它們結合到當地的飲食文化中。作為一個傳承粵菜的地區,以海鮮為主的傳統美食在澳門得到廣泛應用。“咫尺沙岡市,魚蝦不少錢。蟹黃隨月滿,沙白入春鮮”的詩句表達了明末清初時澳門擁有豐富的海產資源及與之相關的飲食習慣。此外,作為澳門族群的一部分,土生人和葡萄牙人也因食用海產品而與當地人有相似的飲食習慣。他們的傳統菜餚中有許多有關海鮮的菜餚。例如,土生菜有Balichão(土生咸蝦醬),Pastéis de Bacalhau(馬介休),Vicencia do Rosario(辣汁蝦),而葡萄牙菜有Ameijoa à Espanhola(葡萄式炒蜆),Lulas Recheadas(酒魷魚) ,Caldeirada de Marisco(海鮮大燴)。有趣的是,一些位於社區裡的餐廳提供葡式菜餚,而主廚則是從父親那裡繼承廚藝的澳門本地人,如位於茨林圍的聚一聚餐廳。
However, Macao was greatly affected by the marine climate. It causes difficulties in safeguarding the original and traditional cuisine that depends on marine resources. One of the traditional and local cuisines is clam sauce in Macao. People can taste it in Comidas Lok Kei nowadays. However, this traditional cuisine is hard to find in Macao’s restaurant since it was affected by polluted water. The phenomenon also exists in Portuguese cuisine. For example, a Portuguese people who was one of the interviewees said that there are some types of fish that disappear. Although he can not name any types of fish, his wife has replaced the disappearing ingredients. It is a pity that the traditional cuisine was not authentic. Moreover, some parts of seafood products such as fish scales, fish bones, and fish viscera are directly treated as waste after cooking. It directly pollutes the environment. A lecturer who teaches culinary arts management in Macao Institute for Tourism Studies (IFTM) explained that the cooking of these parts is difficult and a small amount of people would spend time on them. She introduced that school encourages students to preserve original flavor in a more sustainable way. The fried fish scale is one of the ways to avoid wasting the kitchen garbage. Most importantly, IFTM appointed the Macanese Gastronomy Protection Unit of National Intangible Cultural Heritage and students are taught the courses related to Macanese cuisine. It is a way of sustainable development for Macanese cuisine.
但澳門受海洋性氣候影響較大,這給依賴海洋資源的傳統美食帶來了困難。澳门有一道传统美食是蜆蚧酱。现在人们可以在六記粥面品尝到它。然而,受海水污染影响,这道传统美食在澳门餐厅已难觅踪影。这种现象也存在于葡萄牙菜餚中。例如,作為受訪者之一的葡萄牙人說,有些魚的種類消失會導致無法制作一道傳統美食。雖然他忘記了哪些魚的種類已消失,但他的妻子已經在他們的傳統菜餚中替換掉了消失的食材。遺憾的是,這使得傳統美食變得不正宗。而且,魚鱗、魚刺、魚內臟等大多在烹飪後直接作為廢棄物處理。這會直接導致環境污染。澳門旅遊學院教授廚藝管理的講師解釋說,魚的廢料烹飪難度很大,很少有人會花時間在上面。她介紹說,學校鼓勵學生以更可持續的方式保留傳統的菜式。其中,炸魚鱗是避免浪費廚房垃圾的方法之一。最重要的是,澳門旅遊學院獲委任為國家級非物質文化遺產土生菜美食保護單位,為學生教授土生菜相關的課程。這也是土生菜可持續發展的一種形式。
From the perspective of the dietary structure, Macao is a place that produces less greenhouse gas. The data shows that a pescetarian can help save 33% to 55% of water and carbon footprint. Therefore, the greenhouse gas produced by Macao is less than in other places which have no tradition of eating seafood products. Due to this tradition, Macao has relatively high resilience to face the challenge of climate change from the perspective of gastronomy and diet.
從飲食結構來看,澳門是溫室氣體排放較少的地方。數據顯示,素食主義者可以幫助減少 33% 至 55% 的水污染和碳足跡。因此,澳門產生的溫室氣體較其他沒有食用海產品傳統的地方少。由於這一傳統,澳門從飲食和烹飪的角度應對氣候變化的挑戰具有較高的韌性。
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Source: Lu Jingting 來源:盧靖婷
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By LU JINGTING, MELODY